Friday Links: 4/1

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I’m weirdly exhausted by life/final exams/the sporadically broken heating system in this  house. But I have a backlog of links and they’re all exciting so there’s no putting them off any longer.

And because it’s a new month, the picture above is my new desktop background. Set to tile, as per usual. People swimming in a sea of stars.

What else? 19 days. So close yet so far.

  • Reviews of Wes Anderson’s Isle of Dogs. I’m still pumped because I like Wes Anderson (and dogs), but it sounds like there are some pretty ishy us vs them components.  Won’t be seeing it in the theater. Here’s a review from MovieBob and here is a deeper plunge into the problematic nature of the Japanese setting, the estrangement from the Japanese human characters created by the language barrier,  cultural tourism, and the white savior complex.
  • The movies that influenced Call Me By Your Name. Be right back, adding ALL OF THEM to my list. (Except A Room With A View- I honestly didn’t love that).
  • Other things I’m adding to my film list? These twisted fairy tales (from female directors).
  • A trailer for The House With a Clock in it’s Walls– speaking of twisted fairy tales. Cate Blanchett! Luscious steam-punk-y visuals! Jack Black doing his character actor thing! Creepy! Childlike! I’m kind of tentatively intrigued. Post-Jumanji, is Jack Black due for a resurgence?
  • A discussion of Saoirse Ronan’s costumes for the film Brooklyn, and the deeper meaning behind them. So interesting (and a great film, if you haven’t yet seen it).

Let’s talk about perfume:

  • Five fabulous orange blossom scents, courtesy of Angela at Now Smell This. Of these, the Serge Lutens is my favorite, but I would add Rubj by Vero Profumo to the list if I could. (And on the more gourmand side, Hansa Yellow by DSH and Unknown Pleasures by Kerosene).
  • Carlos Benaim (love) and Frederic Malle on their new lavender-focused fragrance, Music For a While.
  • Hermes releases a new cologne. Unfortunately I missed the Saut Hermes (a jumping tournament at the Grand Palais), but here’s a photo.
  • If you’re feeling science-y (I always am) here’s a study that shows evidence of significant interactions between perfumes and individual body odor.  The takeaway: “The odor mixture of an individual’s body odor and their preferred perfume was perceived as more pleasant than a blend of the same body odor with a randomly-allocated perfume, even when there was no difference in pleasantness between the perfumes. This indicates […] that people choose perfumes that interact well with their own odor. Our results provide an explanation for the highly individual nature of perfume choice.” So cool.

Fashion and celebrity people:

  • Lena Waithe is amazing and I love her style and attitude.
  • Bill Cunningham’s secret memoir. When can I read it?
  • I know I’m late, but in honor of spring (and Easter) some floral looks from Moschino’s S/S 2018 RTW collection: and 2.

Relationships?

  • The maternal grandparent advantage. Rings true for my family (although that also has something to do with geographic proximity). And congratulations Mom and Dad, you are likely to be more involved with my future children than my future parents in law!
  • Your friendship Myers-Briggs. As an INFJ, apparently I’m a bandaid and I’ll take it.
  • For work relationships. I’m living vicariously through the drama of this twitter thread.
  • In old age, shoplifting to find community. Heartbreaking.

Books and other tidbits

  • I saw this adorable kid’s maze book at the Museum of Modern Art in Paris. It reminds me of an immense Sesame Street board book I once had. But rather more portable.
  • Mari Andrew’s book is out! Love her illustrations and down to earth wisdom.
  • Another reason to go home for the summer? Archery tag.
  • A French waiter in Canada says firing for rudeness is discrimination against his culture. He’s not wrong.
  • If you’re not a fan of the lack of privacy re: data and personal info online, console yourself with the fact that if you ever disappear in a national park, amateurs can keep looking for you for decades. But it’s actually a very interesting, well-written article.

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Fashion Documentaries

It’s Fashion Week around here and I’m feeling in the spirit (despite the fact that I’m running a fever and it’s also memorize your twenty amino acids week [hoped I would make it through this BS/my BS without having to do that, but Biochemistry said “Oh no, huehehehe])
Anyway…

There are trends, which I could talk about.  But maybe later.  Because if I get started ranting about dancewear as a trend (DANCE ISN’T A TREND, IT’S A WAY OF LIFE) it will never end.  (And can someone please tell me what the point is of dancewear being a trend if people still try very hard not to make eye contact with me if I walk to a ballroom performance in a rhinestoned-meshy-purply Latin dress, a full face of stage makeup, and Converse? I need a little leeway here!)

Addendum to my advice regarding not getting harassed on the street: It’s amazing what wearing an obnoxious and scandalous costume and a whole lot of makeup can do for a person. Or you can always take this route.

I told you I would get sidetracked.

On to the main event: My favorite (and therefore objectively the best) fashion documentaries!
(So maybe I lied when I said I would stop posting about clothes for a while.)
(Also really abusing the parentheses this post)

In no particular order:

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  1. Vogue: The September Issue
    Anna Wintour, Grace Coddington, and Hamish Bowles are great characters, and this is essentially a film starring Grace’s hair, Hamish’s accent, and Anna’s… well, everything.  It’s very interesting to see how a Vogue issue (particularly the gargantuan September issue) gets put together. Lots of guest appearances by fashion people and lots of guest appearances by fashion people’s crotchets and issues (celebrities, they’re just like us!)
    An aside: Grace Coddington draws pictures of cats and she just released a perfume in a cat-inspired bottle.  And the fragrance is passable!9cc4339cea0866bdb2bd448e2932081f
  2. Valentino: The Last Emperor
    Do it for the pugs. Do it for Martha Stewart.  And you know, Valentino too.  He’s a funny little piece of peach pie, I like him. And his pugs.  Again with the amusing dropping of the famous names and faces.  And the unveiling of their little persnickets.  Martha Stewart goes off investigating the kitchens when she’s invited to Valentino’s house party- LOVE.  Less about the brand, this is more of an investigation of Valentino as a person.
    Quote: “Apres moi, le deluge” (Yep, I still refuse to use proper French accents)bill-cunningham1
  3. Bill Cunningham New York
    Bill Cunningham died on June 25th this year.  This movie captures a sense of his abundantly cheerful good nature and sense of joy at capturing the looks and combinations he saw on the street.  He lived very simply, with his eternal blue smock and smile.  Did he live and breathe fashion? Maybe. But I think it would be more accurate to say that he lived and breathed the spirit of New York City.
    A bit maudlin? Maybe so, but watch the movie and you too will want to ooze love all over Bill.film4-2-4f8fff2497a5a97f
  4. Dior et Moi/ Dior and I
    Back in 2012 Raf Simons was announced as the new artistic director of an already well established fashion house- Maison Dior (he has since resigned).  Dior et Moi tells the story of the mad dash to his first haute couture show.  While ostensibly a film about the struggles Raf Simons overcomes to unite his generally minimalist aesthetic with the ornate and ‘designed’ look of haute couture and Dior’s haute couture history, the film is much more about the timeless foundations of Dior’s look and brand: the part that stays concrete and unperturbed beneath the fluid exchange of artistic directors (Sorry, Raf).  This would be the house’s atelier of seamstresses, many of whom have been working there for decades.  Their pride in their craft and sense of community is beautiful to watch, but the most perfect moments come when they let it slip that they think Raf needs to step off, because he’s a babe in the woods and it’s time to let the real pros handle things.

Meh: Vidal Sassoon, L’Amour Fou, Diana Vreeland: The Eye Must Travel, Lagerfeld Confidential, Vogue: The Editor’s Eye

Remaining to see: Iris, Advanced Style, Just for Kicks, McQueen and I, The True Cost.

In BOLD are movies I have since watched. In RED are ones that are joining the favorites list.